When it comes to selecting the perfect shoe for any look, there is an almost overwhelming range of options to choose from. Oxfords, Brogues and Derbies all offer their own unique style to serve a range of occasions. Knowing which style suits you best may help to save time and money. Understanding the key features and differences between the three shoe styles will ensure that you make the right decision.
Understanding the Difference: Oxfords, Brogues and Derbies
Oxfords, commonly referred to as Balmoral shoes, get their name from the English university town of Oxford. These shoes have a sleek and uniform design that can have many variations depending on the style.The main feature of Oxfords is that their eyelet holes are sewn directly onto the vamp of the shoe, without any laces attached. This gives the classic style that is preferred by many people.
Brogues, also known as wingtip shoes, are generally characterized by the traditional perforated pattern along the sides and toes, allowing for extra ventilation. They often feature serrated edges along the edges of the shoe and around the laces. Brogues generally have more visual detail than Oxfords and are slightly less formal.
Derby shoes are similar to Oxfords but with a major difference: instead of being sewn onto the vamp of the shoe, they have eyelets that are stitched onto the sides of the shoe. This style allows for a more relaxed fit, as it gives room for your feet to expand as you walk; this also makes them easier to take off and put on. Derbies are typically considered to be slightly less formal, but when paired with the right look can still be dressy.
The Origins of Each Style
Oxfords and Derbies have similar origins. The classic Oxford first became popular in England in the late 1700s, but its true popularity bloomed during 19th century England. The Oxford was originally created as a formal shoe for upper-class men but has since become associated with a wide range of occasions. Derbies, on the other hand, were created at around the same time but intended to be less formal than Oxfords, so they are not seen as often in public or at formal occasions. Their popularity, however, has been gaining recently.
Brogues have a much older and varied origin story. They were created in Ireland and Scotland by locals making shoes from hides of animals. Over time, these shoes developed into two distinct styles: the dress brogues and the country brogues. The dress brogue is the style most commonly seen today and is more formal than its country counterpart. The more ornate detailing such as serrations on the edges of the shoes are typically found on dress brogues.
Key Features to Look For
When choosing a shoe style, there are a few key features to watch out for. Oxfords traditionally have a slim profile, with patterned stitching along their welt lines, as well as leather soles typically made with Goodyear welt construction. The toe of Oxford shoes vary greatly depending on the style, and can range from pointed to rounded.
Brogues are easily identified by their traditional perforations along the toe and sides of the shoes. As mentioned before, dress brogues feature ornate details such as serration on the edges and toe cap; however, this may vary depending on the particular style. Dress brogues should also have smooth leather soles.
Derby shoes are easily identified by their open lacing system that has eyelets attached to the sides rather than the vamp. This distinguishes them from Oxford shoes, which have the eyelets directly attached to the vamp of the shoe. Like Oxfords, Derbies can differ in their toe shapes, ranging from pointed to rounded. To add a bit of extra flair, Derbies may also feature a ridge along each side of the shoe.
Different Types of Oxfords
Classic Oxfords are generally considered to be the more versatile design choice between Oxfords, Brogues and Derbies. They can be dressed up with a suit or toned down with jeans or khakis; they are extremely versatile and timeless. The Cap Toe is another popular design variant within Oxfords, these are defined by the decorative stitching that goes across the toe-cap. The Wholecut Oxford is another popular design that is characterized by the single piece of leather used for the upper part of the shoe; this design eliminates all stitching and gives a classic sleek look.
Different Types of Brogues
Brogue designs range from classic to modern-day contemporary looks. The Wingtip Brogue is one of the most iconic designs with its recognizable detailing on both wings of the shoe; this design can be found in dress or casual styles. The Longwing Brogue is another classic design featuring an extended W-shape along the sides of the shoe with decorative serrations around it. The Semi-Brogue is a slightly more modern design with less elaborate detailing on its wings and a sleeker profile than the classic Wingtip; this design is best suited to a more contemporary look.
Different Types of Derbies
Like Oxfords and Brogues, Derbies offer a range of design choices from classic to modern styles. The classic Blucher Derby is one of the most iconic designs featuring an open lacing system with eyelets attached to each side; this design is available in both dress and casual variants. The Plain Toe Derby is another classic design featuring an elegant brogueing pattern across the welt line, giving it a sleek aesthetic.
How to Choose the Right Style for You
Choosing the right style for you can be tricky but understanding the key features can help in making an informed decision. Consider what kind of look you are going for; Oxfords may be better suited for more formal occasions while Derbies and Brogues may be more appropriate for casual contexts. Think about where you will be wearing your shoes; if you are in an office environment, Oxfords may be best while if you are going out at night Derbies may be preferable.
Tips for Wearing Each Style
When wearing your shoes keep in mind that all three styles can come in both formal and casual styles, choose yours accordingly. For more formal Oxfords you should consider colors such as black or brown as these colors will match well with a range of outfits. For more casual styles opt for colors such as tan or white to give your outfit an extra kick. When wearing Derbies or Brogues, consider more vibrant colors such as blue or green for a pop of color. Lastly, make sure to pay attention to how you lace your shoes; this can help to provide an extra touch of sophistication.
Combining the Right Shoes with Your Outfit
When it comes to combining your shoes with your outfit correctly it helps to be aware of different dress codes. If you’re dressing up for an occasion such as an interview or wedding Oxfords are often your best choice; they’re usually made from finer materials like leather making them well-suited for dressier occasions. If you’re dressing up for something more casual like a pub outing or day out Derbies may be your best bet; they often have a bit more detail than Oxfords but still maintain an air of sophistication.
Caring for Your Shoes
Properly caring for your shoes will help them to last longer and look better for longer periods of time; this is especially important for Oxfords which require more delicate care in comparison to Brogues and Derbies. When caring for your shoes regularly clean any dirt off using a horsehair brush or damp cloth and make sure to use a suitable cleaner for the material your shoe is made from. It’s also important to use a protector spray that’s appropriate for materials such as suede or leather; this will help to protect them from rain or cold weather conditions.
Oxfords, Brogues and Derbies all offer their own unique styles that suit different occasions and preferences. Learning about their key features will ensure you make an informed decision when selecting your next pair of shoes. With so many different types available make sure to pick out something that works best for you; this way you can ensure that you look your best every time.
