When it comes to men’s dress shoes, the Oxford, Brogue and Derby have a long standing presence. Although these three types of shoes have some similarities, they each have distinct characteristics which set them apart. Knowledge of the history, identifying aspects, popular styles, and brands of these shoes can help you decide which of the three is right for you.
The Origins of the Oxford, Brogue, and Derby
The Oxford was invented in Scotland in the 18th century, making it one of the oldest types of men’s dress shoes. It originated as a low heeled shoe that featured thin leather panels over the vamp and were laced with two or three eyelets. The Oxfords’ signature feature is its closed lace system, meaning that the lacing follows a straight line on the shoes vamp.
The Brogue, although similar in appearance to the Oxfords, has its origins in Ireland. Unlike the dressy Oxford, this shoe was designed for outdoor activities and therefore featured perforation details, more substantial sole and more elaborate design elements. The Derby, on the other hand, was first produced in England in the early 19th century as an alternative to the slipper style shoe. It is slightly more casual than the other two while still maintaining a degree of sophistication. The Derby has an open lacing system, meaning that the laces cross in an open triangle on the vamp.
Today, the Oxford, Brogue, and Derby are all popular styles of men’s dress shoes. They are often seen in formal settings, such as weddings, but can also be dressed down for a more casual look. The versatility of these shoes makes them a great choice for any occasion.
What Sets Oxfords Apart from Brogues and Derbys
The differences between Oxfords, Brogues and Derbys are quite subtle. The main distinguishing factor is the lacing system, as Oxfords feature a closed lacing system and Brogues and Derbys feature an open lacing system. There are also differences in construction and detailing. The Oxford’s design is simplistic and sophisticated while the Brogues and Derbys usually feature more elaborate detailing like perforation or brogueing as well as thicker soles.
In addition, Oxfords are typically more formal than Brogues and Derbys, making them a popular choice for formal occasions. The sleek design of Oxfords also makes them a great choice for everyday wear, as they can be dressed up or down depending on the occasion. Brogues and Derbys, on the other hand, are more casual and are often seen as a more relaxed alternative to Oxfords.
Key Elements of Oxford, Brogue, and Derby Shoes
A key element to identify an Oxford, Brogue or Derby shoe is to look at their uppers:
- Oxfords – features thin leather panels over the vamp and are laced with two or three eyelets.
- Brogues – features perforations on the toe cap, side panels and vamp.
- Derby – features a smooth upper leather with overlapping panels that are stitched together and laced with two or three pairs of eyelets.
How to Identify an Oxford, Brogue or Derby Shoe
Identifying an Oxford, Brogue or Derby shoe will come down to its lacing system, construction, and detailing. The closed lacing system of an Oxford is usually the easiest to spot, while a Brogue’s details like decorative perforation help it stand out. The Derby’s distinguishing feature is its open lacing system.
Styles of Oxfords, Brogues and Derbys
Oxfords come in different varieties such as full or half brogues which feature some broguing on their toe caps and side panels. The Derby style can also be distinguished by its toe cap design, such as a plain or semi-brogue toe cap.
Popular Brands of Oxfords, Brogues and Derbys
There are a few go-to brands for quality men’s dress shoes that make oxfords, brogues, and derbys. Allen Edmonds has been producing premium quality American-made shoes since 1922 and has a selection of traditional Oxford and Derby styles. Magnanni’s shoes are crafted using only the finest Italian leathers. Alden is another traditional shoe brand with its popular unlined leather derbys.
Care and Maintenance for Oxford, Brogue and Derby Shoes
Taking care of your dress shoes is important for extending their life. Regular use should be accompanied by regular cleaning and maintenance to keep your shoes in top condition. Other factors like storage and polishing can also contribute to preserving your shoes. It’s recommended that you use a horsehair brush when polishing dress shoes such as oxfords, brogues and derbys.
How to Select the Right Oxford, Brogue or Derby for Your Style
Choosing between oxfords, brogues and derbys will depend on your individual style:
- If you are looking for a formal look then an Oxford would be ideal.
- A Brogue is more suitable for a smart casual look since they have more elaborate designs.
- A Derby would be a great choice if you are looking for something less formal.
Once you have decided on what type of shoe fits you best then you can pick out your favorite style from the different brands available. Whether you choose classic leather or a more modern material, understanding the differences between oxfords, brogues and derbys will help you make an informed decision. This way you can find the perfect dress shoe to add style to any outfit.
