Cotton is renowned as one of the best natural fibers in the world. It is known for its softness, breathability, durability, and easy care. The quality of cotton depends on a few factors—what type of cotton it is, where it was sourced from, and how it was treated. Here, we’ll go in depth about what makes the highest quality cotton, the different grades of cotton, and how to identify it when shopping for the perfect garment.

What Are the Different Grades of Cotton?

Cotton is graded in several categories as part of its quality control. The highest grade of cotton is extra long staple (ELS) cotton, which refers to its fiber length. It is measured in millimeters and samples that reach 1 3/8th of an inch or longer in length are classified as ELS. Longer fibers produce yarns with fewer slubs and increased strength which ultimately leads to higher quality fabrics. It is the most expensive form of cotton due to its excellent quality, soft feel, beautiful luster and long-lasting characteristics. Commonly used ELS varieties include Sea Island and Egyptian cotton.

High Extra-Long Staple (HELS) cottons are also incredibly soft and smooth, but shorter than ELS varieties. They include cottons like Pima and Supima which are grown in the US and are usually indicated as extra-long staple when purchased.

Upland cottons include Pima cotton from the US and Giza from Egypt which are known for their extra-long staples. They offer a softer feel than regular Upland cotton and are usually more expensive.

Basic Upland cotton is the most commonly found cotton and has shorter staple lengths than ELS and HELS varieties, making it a lower quality fabric.

How to Identify Quality Cotton

You can determine a garment’s quality by looking at its label, weight, and feel or by touch. An item made of high quality ELS or HELS cotton should feel smooth, almost silky, and have greater softness than other varieties. The fabric should also be lightweight yet strong and have a good drape.

Higher quality cotton will have a dense knot on the underside of the fabric that holds the yarns together. Low quality cotton will have a loose knot that will easily unravel. Additionally, look for more evenly woven fabric as signs of higher quality.

Benefits of High Quality Cotton

Longer fiber length means stronger fabrics which are less likely to pill, shrink, or wrinkle. High quality cotton also wears better over time and can hold its original shape and size better as it ages. Since higher quality cotton has a softer feel, it’s more comfortable and breathable on the skin.

Unsustainable farming practices can lead to soil erosion and increase air pollution due to pesticide use. So when you buy higher quality cotton, you’re investing in fabrics that yield better results over a longer period of time, reducing impacts on the environment.

Factors That Determine the Quality of Cotton

The location where the cotton was grown has a huge impact on its quality. Locations like Egypt, Turkey, and Peru yield higher quality cotton due to their ideal climates for planting. Premium cottons tend to come from high altitudes that receive lots of sunlight.

The type of fibers used also affect their strength and durability. Longer fibers are better than shorter fibers as they are less likely to break when weaving the fibers together, making them stronger. Generally, the longer fibers produce better cloth, with fewer slubs (uneven knots in yarn) and more even hand (the way fabric feels).

The way cotton is harvested, handled and processed is also very important. Cotton clothes should be treated with care in order to keep its original shape and quality over time. For instance, good quality cotton should be hand-washed or machine-washed on a gentle cycle.

What to Look for When Buying High Quality Cotton

When shopping for high quality cotton garments, make sure you look for certain indicators:

• Fabric label – higher quality cotton garments will usually indicate “ELS” or “HELS” in their label.
• Weight – lightweight fabrics with good drape indicates high-quality cotton.
• Fabric feel – higher quality cottons should feel softer and smoother than other types of fabric.
• Knit – look for tightly-knit fabrics with an even weave.
• Origin – premium cottons tend to come from high altitude locations that receive lots of sunlight.

Tips for Sourcing High Quality Cotton

When sourcing cotton fabrics or garments, here are some tips to help you identify high-quality options:

• Be aware of the different fabric labels – if the product does not specify whether it is ELS or HELS, then it could be lower quality Upland cotton.
• Check for endorsements – look out for certifications from internationally accredited organizations such as GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standards), Oeko-Tex or Fairtrade.
• Do your research – read up on the origin and production process behind your preferred products to get a better understanding of your purchase.
• Seek out natural fiber options – natural fibers are usually considered higher quality than synthetic materials.

Popular Varieties of High Quality Cotton

Common types of ELS cottons include Egyptian Giza 45, Egyptian Giza 86, Egyptian Giza 88, Pima or Supima (grown in the US), West Australian (WA 73 & WA 83) and Sea Island. All of these varieties have finer yarns that produce thread counts of 60 or above as they have significantly less fiber ends per inch.

Cost Comparison: High vs Low Quality Cotton

It’s worth noting that no two cottons are equal—some may vary in softness, absorbency, durability or strength. Higher quality fabrics come with a higher price tag as they use longer staple lengths which costs more to produce. An item made from low quality Upland cotton usually costs two to three times less than higher quality extra-long staple cottons due to their shorter fibers and lower thread count.

Conclusion

When choosing a high quality cotton fabric or garment, there are several factors you need to consider—what type of cotton it is, where it comes from, and how it has been handled and processed. Knowing what to look for can help you find the ideal fabric for your wardrobe or project. Keep in mind that high quality fabric costs more than lower quality options but these purchases ultimately pay off as they wear better over time.